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Otkako je pandemije, ni u modi više ništa nije kako treba.
Onu prvu pandemijsku, 2020. smo proveli kod kuće i razmišljali o tome kako doći do što bolje tute, tute za po kući ili tute za van. Srećom, nakon prvog šoka zbog zaraze, modni svijet se sabrao i krenuo dalje.
Kad se osvrnete na proteklu godinu i podvučete crtu, sjetite se onog "mama sindroma" i riječi: Sve smo mi to nekad nosile!
Ne možete drugačije ako iza sebe imate već pristojan broj modnih godina, stilova i trendova, pa kad vam se kći dođe pohvaliti s kakvim novim komadom robe, taj vas komad sjeti na neko vrijeme, neke dane, sate, na neke ljude...
U opojnom ritmu osamdesetih
I ne morate pregledavati tisuće modnih fotografija iz protekle 2021., kao što smo mi učinili da bi se podsjetili kakva je bila po pitanju mode, jer već na prvih nekoliko shvatite da su se osamdesete "nosile" u godini kojoj upravo odbrojavamo zadnje dane.
Da, dvadeset i prva je bila u znaku osamdesetih, ili kako bi neki rado rekli – 2021. je bila nova osamdeset i neka.
Pa kad vidite, naglašena ramena, visoki struk, debele jakne, tweed, čizme, jeans... vratite se u ono dobro doba kad ste u disku u debelom pletenom džemperu skakali uz Azrine note ili se zaljubljeno ugnijezdili u "stiskavcu" uz glazbu Duran Durana, doma slušali Dylana i Claptona, a emocionalno se čvrsto vezali za Bowieja.
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U kinima smo gledali "Flashdance", "Prljavi ples", "Footloose" i mnoge druge blještave i rasplesane filmove koji su nam između ostalog "diktirali" i šljokice, boje, grijače za stopala i visoki struk.
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I sada su te godine nekako oživjele, ali kako to biva u modi, ništa iz osamdesetih nije doslovno kopirano, već su inspiracije toliko intenzivne da je svaki komad koji se pojavio često jedna prenaglašena verzija tih davnih godina.
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Kako je sada dobrano zahladilo, ovaj modni osvrt možemo započeti s toplijim odjevnim predmetima.
Toperice onda i sada
Počnimo s jaknama skrojenim "po modelu 80". Tada su se nosile velike skijaške, zvale su se "toperice" po ondašnjem sportskom brandu koji ih je nekako prvi počeo proizvoditi tu na našim prostorima.
Nije tu bilo puno izbora, nudile su se crvene, plave, zelene, žute i možda još po koja manje važna boja, ali svima dovoljno modela.
I već tada su bile gotovo uniseks, četrdesetak godina prije nego što su ih današnji dizajneri skrojili za ženski i muški svijet istovremeno.
Za razliku od tadašnjih nekoliko verzija "toperica", modni sljedbenici danas imaju nebrojivu ponudu takvih zimskih jakni, nebrojivo u smislu boja i dezena, pa i odstupanja od kroja, ali da ipak ne skrene s puta.
Nebrojivo i u smislu dućana, bezbroj je web-stranica gdje se "replike" mogu kupiti i za manje novca nego što su se onda davno plaćale, samo što današnji kupci, mlade trendseterice i trendseteri i ne znaju koliko sjećanja probude njihove "toperice".
Ali moramo reći da su, primjerice, ženske verzije "skijaškog" sada glomaznije, možda ne i toplije, jer tko bi toliko paperja potrošio na kaput koji mora biti dostupan najširim modnim masama. No, svakako, u ženskom ormaru je ove godine svakako morao, i mora još, visiti kaput-jorgan, što veći i što luđi.
To je bilo redikulozno
U protekloj smo godini svi bili u potrazi za što većim platformama, za što debljim potplatima i često za što ružnijim postolama.
Razlika između osamdesetih i ovih modnih u 2021. je u tom što se onda nijedna dama ne bi ni osvrnula na bakandže od bijele gume. To je bilo redikulozno, a danas je i hit i trend.
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Od bijelog do crnog, ove su godine postole bile u svim tonovima, a najbolja karakteristika im je vjerojatno u tome što su udobne i nosive u svim prilikama.
Tako udobne obuće nije bilo još od onih zaboravljenih "brukserica" ili onih s četvrtastim kljunom iz devedesetih, pa zato možemo nove "bakandže" nastaviti nositi i u 2022., ionako sigurno još neće izići iz mode.
Evo ih opet – mokasine!
Modnim nostalgičarima se zasigurno sviđao ovogodišnji hit na nogama – mokasine tipa "college" ili još više takozvane "cat" ili "caterpillar".
I prve i druge su u 2021. bile u glomaznijim izdanjima. Stari modni znalci nekad su se jedva oprostili od "koleđica" u bordo boji kad su ispale iz mode, osamdesetih su bile skoro pa pisano pravilo za muškarce dobrog stila, a "catice" su žene nosile na krznene ogrtače i u njima mogle i u kazalište.
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U 2021. i žene i muškarci nosili su i "koleđice" i "cat" postole, ali sada su one bile robusne, široke, čvrste, podebljanih potplata, onih koji nisu platforme, ali dovoljno debelih da zaštite od hladnoće i na najvećem snijegu.
Zanimljivo je, međutim, da dizajneri tražeći inspiraciju u starim ormarima ili garderobama svojih baka, često iz zaborava izvuku nešto što je bilo najružnije. Na primjer, najružnije iz osamdesetih bio je onaj "potrošeni" ili flekavi jeans od kojeg su se krojile jakne prevelikih dimenzija, prenaglašenih ramena, širokih rukava...
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A eto, baš to se našlo u kolekcijama nekih značajnijih modnih autora, a onda se i u ormarima trendseterica lani moralo imati predimenzioniranu klasičnu jeans jaknu, tim više što je i u "fast fashion" robnim markama takav komad robe bio itekako dostupan.
Kao i mnogo toga u protekloj modnoj godini, tako su i rukavi, pletiva, kićenost bili predimenzionirani. Opet je to jedna iskrivljena slika davnih osamdesetih.
Puf na ramenima kao veliki puf
Na ljetnim haljinama i košuljama su bili pretjerani puf rukavi, toliko da nisu imali samo nenormalno veliki puf na ramenima, nego bi cijeli rukav postao jedan veliki – puf. Nepraktično, ali moderno. Pleteni džemperi su bili kao tuđi, pleteni zanatski, u kućnoj atmosferi na najdeblje igle.
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Čak i tvornički su bili vjerni "bakinom" stilu pletenja, ali dobro je što se u tome često koristila vuna prirodnih tonova, najčešće ona boje devine dlake.
Ali sve ostale boje su bile žive i ponekad vrišteće, kao da je trebalo napraviti otklon od prethodne "lockdown" godine, kombinacija vesele odjeće bila je baš kao protuotrov udobnosti u koju smo bili umotani tijekom 2020. godine.
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I na koncu, "osamdesete su bile godine..." davno je opjevala "Daleka obala", a u 2022. možemo tek poželjeti da se ovogodišnji modni trend malo produži, ali s najljepšim detaljima.
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Otkako je pandemije, ni u modi više ništa nije kako treba.
Onu prvu pandemijsku, 2020. smo proveli kod kuće i razmišljali o tome kako doći do što bolje tute, tute za po kući ili tute za van. Srećom, nakon prvog šoka zbog zaraze, modni svijet se sabrao i krenuo dalje.
Kad se osvrnete na proteklu godinu i podvučete crtu, sjetite se onog "mama sindroma" i riječi: Sve smo mi to nekad nosile!
Ne možete drugačije ako iza sebe imate već pristojan broj modnih godina, stilova i trendova, pa kad vam se kći dođe pohvaliti s kakvim novim komadom robe, taj vas komad sjeti na neko vrijeme, neke dane, sate, na neke ljude...
U opojnom ritmu osamdesetih
I ne morate pregledavati tisuće modnih fotografija iz protekle 2021., kao što smo mi učinili da bi se podsjetili kakva je bila po pitanju mode, jer već na prvih nekoliko shvatite da su se osamdesete "nosile" u godini kojoj upravo odbrojavamo zadnje dane.
Da, dvadeset i prva je bila u znaku osamdesetih, ili kako bi neki rado rekli – 2021. je bila nova osamdeset i neka.
Pa kad vidite, naglašena ramena, visoki struk, debele jakne, tweed, čizme, jeans... vratite se u ono dobro doba kad ste u disku u debelom pletenom džemperu skakali uz Azrine note ili se zaljubljeno ugnijezdili u "stiskavcu" uz glazbu Duran Durana, doma slušali Dylana i Claptona, a emocionalno se čvrsto vezali za Bowieja.
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U kinima smo gledali "Flashdance", "Prljavi ples", "Footloose" i mnoge druge blještave i rasplesane filmove koji su nam između ostalog "diktirali" i šljokice, boje, grijače za stopala i visoki struk.
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I sada su te godine nekako oživjele, ali kako to biva u modi, ništa iz osamdesetih nije doslovno kopirano, već su inspiracije toliko intenzivne da je svaki komad koji se pojavio često jedna prenaglašena verzija tih davnih godina.
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Kako je sada dobrano zahladilo, ovaj modni osvrt možemo započeti s toplijim odjevnim predmetima.
Toperice onda i sada
Počnimo s jaknama skrojenim "po modelu 80". Tada su se nosile velike skijaške, zvale su se "toperice" po ondašnjem sportskom brandu koji ih je nekako prvi počeo proizvoditi tu na našim prostorima.
Nije tu bilo puno izbora, nudile su se crvene, plave, zelene, žute i možda još po koja manje važna boja, ali svima dovoljno modela.
I već tada su bile gotovo uniseks, četrdesetak godina prije nego što su ih današnji dizajneri skrojili za ženski i muški svijet istovremeno.
Za razliku od tadašnjih nekoliko verzija "toperica", modni sljedbenici danas imaju nebrojivu ponudu takvih zimskih jakni, nebrojivo u smislu boja i dezena, pa i odstupanja od kroja, ali da ipak ne skrene s puta.
Nebrojivo i u smislu dućana, bezbroj je web-stranica gdje se "replike" mogu kupiti i za manje novca nego što su se onda davno plaćale, samo što današnji kupci, mlade trendseterice i trendseteri i ne znaju koliko sjećanja probude njihove "toperice".
Ali moramo reći da su, primjerice, ženske verzije "skijaškog" sada glomaznije, možda ne i toplije, jer tko bi toliko paperja potrošio na kaput koji mora biti dostupan najširim modnim masama. No, svakako, u ženskom ormaru je ove godine svakako morao, i mora još, visiti kaput-jorgan, što veći i što luđi.
To je bilo redikulozno
U protekloj smo godini svi bili u potrazi za što većim platformama, za što debljim potplatima i često za što ružnijim postolama.
Razlika između osamdesetih i ovih modnih u 2021. je u tom što se onda nijedna dama ne bi ni osvrnula na bakandže od bijele gume. To je bilo redikulozno, a danas je i hit i trend.
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Od bijelog do crnog, ove su godine postole bile u svim tonovima, a najbolja karakteristika im je vjerojatno u tome što su udobne i nosive u svim prilikama.
Tako udobne obuće nije bilo još od onih zaboravljenih "brukserica" ili onih s četvrtastim kljunom iz devedesetih, pa zato možemo nove "bakandže" nastaviti nositi i u 2022., ionako sigurno još neće izići iz mode.
Evo ih opet – mokasine!
Modnim nostalgičarima se zasigurno sviđao ovogodišnji hit na nogama – mokasine tipa "college" ili još više takozvane "cat" ili "caterpillar".
I prve i druge su u 2021. bile u glomaznijim izdanjima. Stari modni znalci nekad su se jedva oprostili od "koleđica" u bordo boji kad su ispale iz mode, osamdesetih su bile skoro pa pisano pravilo za muškarce dobrog stila, a "catice" su žene nosile na krznene ogrtače i u njima mogle i u kazalište.
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U 2021. i žene i muškarci nosili su i "koleđice" i "cat" postole, ali sada su one bile robusne, široke, čvrste, podebljanih potplata, onih koji nisu platforme, ali dovoljno debelih da zaštite od hladnoće i na najvećem snijegu.
Zanimljivo je, međutim, da dizajneri tražeći inspiraciju u starim ormarima ili garderobama svojih baka, često iz zaborava izvuku nešto što je bilo najružnije. Na primjer, najružnije iz osamdesetih bio je onaj "potrošeni" ili flekavi jeans od kojeg su se krojile jakne prevelikih dimenzija, prenaglašenih ramena, širokih rukava...
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A eto, baš to se našlo u kolekcijama nekih značajnijih modnih autora, a onda se i u ormarima trendseterica lani moralo imati predimenzioniranu klasičnu jeans jaknu, tim više što je i u "fast fashion" robnim markama takav komad robe bio itekako dostupan.
Kao i mnogo toga u protekloj modnoj godini, tako su i rukavi, pletiva, kićenost bili predimenzionirani. Opet je to jedna iskrivljena slika davnih osamdesetih.
Puf na ramenima kao veliki puf
Na ljetnim haljinama i košuljama su bili pretjerani puf rukavi, toliko da nisu imali samo nenormalno veliki puf na ramenima, nego bi cijeli rukav postao jedan veliki – puf. Nepraktično, ali moderno. Pleteni džemperi su bili kao tuđi, pleteni zanatski, u kućnoj atmosferi na najdeblje igle.
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Čak i tvornički su bili vjerni "bakinom" stilu pletenja, ali dobro je što se u tome često koristila vuna prirodnih tonova, najčešće ona boje devine dlake.
Ali sve ostale boje su bile žive i ponekad vrišteće, kao da je trebalo napraviti otklon od prethodne "lockdown" godine, kombinacija vesele odjeće bila je baš kao protuotrov udobnosti u koju smo bili umotani tijekom 2020. godine.
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I na koncu, "osamdesete su bile godine..." davno je opjevala "Daleka obala", a u 2022. možemo tek poželjeti da se ovogodišnji modni trend malo produži, ali s najljepšim detaljima.
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AFP
Rosanna Arquette i Madonna u filmu iz 1985. ”Očajnički tražeći Susan” utjelovljuju svu modnu neodoljivost 80-ih
AFP
Sve smo željele izgledati i plesati kao Jennifer Beals u filmu ”Flashdance” (1983.)
AFP
Lori Singer u filmu ”Footloose” iz 1984.
afp
Hina Mirza nas podsjeća na doba kad su današnje bake bile mlade....
afp
White Mountaineering kreacija
afp
Jean Paul Gaultier kolekcija na tragu davnog desetljeća
AFP
Kreacija Balenciage inspirirana osamdesetima
AFP
Model u kolekciji Miu Miu u Parizu
afp
Isabel Marant s proljeća na predstavljanju u Parizu
AFP
Nigdje bez puf rukava
AFP
Louis Vuitton's iz ovogodišnje kolecije proljeće/ljeto
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19. svibanj 2024 19:43
